Friday, January 31, 2025
HomeCouple TravelParma, Milan, Como... and Bury St EdmundsMr and Mrs Romance

Parma, Milan, Como… and Bury St EdmundsMr and Mrs Romance


For the primary time in a very long time, we’re travelling all through December. And in a fair longer time, we’re within the northern hemisphere for Christmas!

Nicely, in fact, I might be within the UK for Christmas whereas Christina is heading dwelling simply earlier than to be together with her household. It’s going to be unusual not spending the festive interval collectively. The final time we did that was method again in 2015/6, so this might be an fascinating experiment.

However whereas we’re away, we’ll be in lovely Italy – particularly Parma, Milan and on the shores of Lake Como. We’ll even be exploring new elements of Suffolk on England’s far jap aspect and perhaps a few journeys elsewhere too. 

We hope you get pleasure from this Style of the Month!

Cheers – Jim and Christina xx

Flight over the Alps to Italy

Our flight to Heathrow through Taipei was fairly lengthy – the final phase was about 16 hours – so this one from Stansted to Bergamo simply north of Milan might be a breeze. Particularly with unimaginable views of the Alps retaining us occupied. 

Our friends Clare and Dave with us travelling to Italy in winter

We’re travelling with our great pals Clare and Dave, who we’ve recognized for 20-odd years now. We’ve travelled collectively earlier than so we not solely know the way everybody likes to journey, but additionally that all of us have a most important focus: food and drinks!

Heading to Parma is the apparent selection then. It’s well-known for being one of many nice meals capitals of the world.

Parma, Italy. Us, Clare and Dave at Enoteca Tabarro

After a considerably irritating begin to our journey (I didn’t suppose I’d want a world driver’s licence to select up the rental automotive on the airport), we settle into our new environment of the fascinating city of Parma.

First cease – and in reality the closest cease – is a little bit streetside bar referred to as Enoteca Tabarro. It’s a busy spot particularly because it’s simply the beginning of passeggiata (an unofficial night occasion the place everybody within the city goes for a stroll), however the proprietor nonetheless has time to come back out and serve us. And lecture us on the nuances of all of the pure wines he sells and to inform us that we all know nothing about wine. It’s loads of enjoyable.

It is a nice people-watching spot although, so we grin by way of the man-splain and take within the tradition of the night.

Parma, Italy. Our first dinner with Clare and Dave - starting with prosciutto, cheese and torta fritta

After a number of drinks round city, we realise it’s time for supper and attempt to get a desk at what we predict is a little bit restaurant down a aspect avenue.

It seems we’ve come throughout the Trattoria del Tribunale – an unlimited eatery that’s not solely massive but additionally top-of-the-line locations to eat on the town. I don’t realise on the time, but it surely’s on certainly one of my many lists and a neighborhood we chat later within the journey even recommends it.

The service is impeccable, the meals is elegant and the costs are surprisingly good. No surprise it’s so widespread. By the point we depart, there’s an enormous queue ready for tables.

On our plate right here by the best way is torta fritti, a sort of fried bread pastry that’s particular to the area. It’s the proper car for prosciutto di Parma and reggiano parmigiano – each of that are made inside a number of miles of city.

Parma, Italy. The Governor's Palace and Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi in the morning

This morning, we’re up early. One of many most important squares of Parma – Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi – is kind of and the solar is simply touching the highest of the elegant Governor’s Palace. As we speak is actually Christina’s birthday current, although it’s nonetheless a few weeks away. 

We’ve booked a day at a reggiano parmigiano parmesan cheese manufacturing unit and a prosciutto di Parma ham manufacturing unit with ParmaLook, a neighborhood tour firm that does small group journeys across the space.

Parma, Italy. Tour of reggiano parmigiano cheese

We begin the day with a drive out to an artisanal cheese manufacturing unit the place they’re nearly to tug out the day’s cheese. Cooking and fermenting cows’ milk in a single day, the curds and whey have separated, and the cheesemaster on the left is inspecting the outcomes.

This manufacturing unit makes simply 5 cheeses a day and so they solely make parmesan. It takes 550 litres of unpasteurised milk to make one wheel of parmesan, and the method is laborious and time-consuming. However my goodness, it’s price it!

Parma, Italy. Cheese ageing room and tasting 50-month parmisan

L&R: Christina and Jim admiring the cabinets of cheese, M: 50 month aged reggiano parmigiano

This has been Christina’s life-long dream to face between the towering stacked cabinets of a parmesan warehouse and to breathe within the heady aroma. It’s been definitely worth the wait. 

We additionally get to strive a number of totally different ages of cheese. The one right here has been aged for 50 months and its flavours are so intense. Nutty, sharp, spicy and peppery, it’s a style that lasts so lengthy in your palate.

There’s a pleasant crunch to the cheese. Tiny crystals type in well-made well-aged parmesan, however they’re not salt flakes. They’re naturally occurring proteins from the milk (tyrosine and calcium lactate) that clump collectively because the cheese will get older.

Parma, Italy. Jim & Christina peeping out from behind the cheese shelves

It’s been so fascinating to study in regards to the technique of this highly-skilled business. Every wheel has been dealt with a lot earlier than it will get to its maturity (we’re nonetheless ready for that, as you possibly can see!).

The totally different colors of the wheels present that they’ve been ageing for various lengths of time. The darker cheese have been right here longer, and there’s no wax or protecting on these cheeses. It’s only a pure rind that kinds from brining and ageing. And simply to substantiate, sure, you possibly can eat the rind; it’s nice for soups and stews.

Parma, Italy. The cow's milk that makes Reggiano Parmigiano is very special

We additionally get to fulfill the actual stars of the present: the particular cows that produce all of the milk for the cheese. There are 140 cows connected to this manufacturing unit and so they’re milked twice a day.

Solely milk from the DOP specified by the federal government can be utilized and the cows have to be from the realm too. Greater than that, they must eat solely the grass grown inside this Denominazione di Origine Protetta (Protected Designation of Origin). They don’t appear to thoughts.

Parma, Italy. Prosciutto di Parma collage

L-R: Jim having fun with the ageing room on the prosciutto di Parma manufacturing unit, one of many drying rooms, the various racks of hams ageing gracefully

Subsequent, we’re again within the van heading to what appears to be somebody’s home. However by way of the doorways, we uncover a full-on prosciutto di Parma manufacturing unit!

Room after room, we study the entire course of of manufacturing this most fascinating of Italian meats. Our information explains how the hind legs of a selected breed of pig come right here for butchering then there for the primary wash, then there for drying, there for salting, again to washing, again for extra salting… it’s a bewildering and enchanting methodology.

Lastly, we transfer into the curing room the place slatted home windows, that are solely open when the winds are blowing off the distant sea, permit the hams to age and develop their signature flavour.

Parma, Italy. Claudio uses his mother's slicing machine worth over E15,000

On the finish of the tour, we meet Claudio, the proprietor and – get this – soul employee of this facility. Now in his 80s, Claudio says he’s retired from prosciutto making, however we glance round on the variety of hams hanging right here and we’ve issue agreeing with him.

Claudio then activates his prosciutto slicer, a machine he inherited from his mom, and reveals us simply why prosciutto di Parma is the perfect on this planet. Mentioned to be price over €15,000, the machine can lower slices so skinny you possibly can fairly actually see by way of them.

As for the flavour and texture, it’s delicate and candy with a saltiness than combines with the all-important layer of fats. The minimal depth of fats might be no much less that 22mm or the ham might be rejected. 

Parma, Italy. Tasting room at prosciutto di Parma factory

Together with the scrumptious prosciutto, Claudio offers us a style of native wine. Usually, Lambrusco – a glowing pink wine from the realm – is the decision of the day, however Claudio prefers a glowing dry white wine to go along with his ham. 

The sharpness and dryness of the wine cuts by way of the fats of the pork and brings out extra of that salty sweetness within the meat. It’s onerous to go away this place, however all too quickly, we are saying goodbye to Claudio and his magnificent hams.

Parma, Italy

Parma, Italy. Golden retriever eyes the digestivi

Again in Parma, we discover extra of the beautiful little streets of the city and cease for a drink a few locations.

Aperitivo – the idea of serving little snacks with drinks, usually free of charge – is a robust and far appreciated custom in Milan. Parma is far the identical, although their snacks actually are on one other stage.

All the pieces from little pizza slices and mortadella to bowls of nuts and sandwiches adorn tables with our drinks. This golden retriever has his eye on certainly one of all the pieces I feel!

Parma, Italy. Food of Parma - parmisan, torta fritti and culatello tagliolini

Meals of Parma – L-R: reggiano parmigiano, torta fritti and culatello tagliolini

With our new-found data of two of Parma’s meals crowns, we delve into one other glorious dinner. It have to be onerous to dwell right here and never over-eat.

The third dish right here by the best way – culatello tagliolini – is a dish from close by city of Zibello: prosciutto crisped in sage butter and lined in parmesan cheese with skinny ribbon pasta. It’s tough to precise simply how good that is.

Parma, Italy. Architecture collage

Structure of Parma – L-R: Cattedrale di Parma, Chiesa Parrocchiale della Santissima Annunziata and inside Chiesa di San Giovanni Evangelista

Parma, Italy. Trattoria Corrieri - the best meal of our trip

Our final evening in Parma, we’ve what all of us agree is the perfect meal of the journey. Even on the flight dwelling, we’re nonetheless speaking about Trattoria Corrieri. It’s a type of uncommon locations that simply oozes environment.

The meals is well-made and homely, and although it will not be worthy of any Michelin consideration, it’s the sensation you get if you’re in a spot that makes an important meal somewhat than simply what’s in your plate.

That is the place to come back if… no, when you go to Parma.

Parma, Italy. Us at the doors of the Baptistry of Parma

Charming, native, pleasant and enjoyable, Parma is one more a type of hidden Italian treasures that wait to be found. It’s a dog-friendly city with fascinating bars and eateries, distinctive meals, and an understanding of that dolce vita Italy is so well-known for. 

Additionally, as a result of it’s off the same old vacationer path, it doesn’t really feel like Parma’s a city that totally understands worldwide tourism but. It’s nonetheless uncooked and harmless. So get right here sooner somewhat than later.

Milan, Italy. Us, and Clare and Dave outside the Duomo of Milan

From the little nation city of Parma, we hit the large smoke. We’re in Milan!

Milan, Italy. Lunch at the weird Rivoire Oberdan

We do what we do finest in massive cities and stroll till we’re hungry. It’s such an effective way to seek out these uncommon parts of a city you’re visiting. 

Lunch right this moment is on the very peculiar Rivoire Oberdan. The meals is okay – scrumptious truly – but it surely’s the decor that makes this place so unusual.

Eclectic doesn’t actually go far sufficient right here. Sistine Chapel type frescos adorn the ceilings and fits of samurai armour stand on the partitions. In the meantime a stuffed ostrich stands guard within the nook and large chandeliers dangle in kingly opulence above.

Waitstaff are, for no matter purpose – maybe none in any respect, dressed like ships’ stewards. It’s bonkers. We find it irresistible!

Milan, Italy. Canals of the city

We’ve come to the south of the town to its canals. Though Christina and I’ve been to Milan a few instances, that is the primary time we’ve been to this bit. I feel we’ve been lacking out. 

Nevertheless, that is as soon as once more one more reason to journey low season. I’ve little doubt the canals in summer season can be a nightmare, thronging with plenty of vacationers.

Milan, Italy. Fun dinner at Luca & Andrea

Dinner at Luca & Andrea Bar by the canals of Milan – L-R: Jim, Christina, Clare and Dave; Cotoletta Milanese; and a drop of vino rosso

The 4 of us discover the various canal-side eating places on the lookout for a great place for dinner. We lastly choose Luca & Andrea Bar. It’s quiet once we stroll in however by the point my huge (although sadly a little bit dry) cotoletta Milanese arrives, the restaurant’s crammed up a bit.

It’s onerous to know if this place can be a part of the vacationer path, however tonight it’s simply us and a smattering of locals, which is simply the best way we prefer it.

Milan, Italy. Clare and Dave fall in love

Clare and Dave are lacking Ruby and Luna, their fur infants again in England, however the desk behind us is blissful to lend them certainly one of theirs for some time. I do surprise if this might have occurred if we had been right here in peak season. I’ve my doubts.

Milan, Italy. Arco della Pace

One other day of exploring sees us all the best way over on the Castello Sforzesco and its pretty parklands. At its far finish is that this, the Arco della Tempo – ‘Arch of Peace’ – Milan’s triumphal arch.

Milan, Italy. The duomo at sunset

Most likely Milan’s finest recognized landmark is the duomo. This lovely cathedral is in truth the most important and finest examples of Gothic structure, and is among the greatest cathedrals on this planet too.

We go inside to see the unimaginable vaulted ceilings, elegant columns and spectacular flooring, however what we’ve actually come right here for is the rooftop.

Milan, Italy. Christina on the roof

Among the best views in Milan, the rooftop of the duomo is nicely price paying the additional for. And what’s much more price it’s paying for the elevator.

Although if you happen to get pleasure from clambering up thousands and thousands of tight stone steps with the approaching dread of cascading backwards to your demise (or forwards if you return down), please ignore my final suggestion.

Milan, Italy. Views from the Rinascente Rooftop Bar over the Duomo

The one drawback with being on the roof of the duomo is you possibly can’t actually see the duomo itself. Plus, there’s no bar. 

Nevertheless, throughout the street, on the high of the Rinascente division retailer (stage 7) is Il Bar. This open-air rooftop bar has the perfect views of the town and the duomo in a single. Plus there’s even desk service!

Lake Como, Italy. Dave, Clare, Christina and Jim on a ferry crossing the lake

As we speak is Clare’s birthday! We’ve hopped on the prepare from Milan to the shores of Lake Como – you possibly can learn the way right here.

We had been anticipating it to be blisteringly chilly right here with wind from the distant Alps and the lake, however within the solar it’s truly pretty. And even higher, there are just about no different vacationers right here. We’ve the passenger ferry to our selves and we benefit from the views of this extremely gorgeous lake as if it’s a personal cruise.

Lake Como, Italy. Bellagio and Varenna

We cease off at Bellagio for lunch and by some means rating the proper desk in one of many few eating places open at the moment of yr (one of many hazards of low season journey) and feast ourselves foolish. Simply because the solar begins to dip beneath the mountains, we board our prepare again to the town.

Goodbye, Italy. Clare and Christina outside the Milan Duomo, and Jim and Dave at the Pirates and Poets bar in Milan

L-R: Christina and Clare outdoors the Duomo, Milan; Jim and Dave on the Pirates and Poets bar in Milan

We’ve cherished our time in Italy’s winter wonderland, and much more so to have the ability to do it with such good pals. The bar on the best right here, the place Dave and I are cheers-ing, is a cracker. PiratiPoeti (Pirates and Poets) is an excellent native spot within the metropolis’s northeast.

Bury St Edmunds, England UK. The ruins of the original abbey, Christina and a small door, outside and inside England's smallest pub: the Nutshell

Bury St Edmunds, England UK – TL-BR: the ruins of the unique abbey, Christina and a small door, and the inside and outside of England’s smallest pub: the Nutshell

Again within the UK, we’re spending a while with my dad and mom and brother, who has additionally flown over from Australia to spend a while with the household. My mum and pa dwell pretty near the historic city of Bury St Edmunds in Suffolk. It’s the primary time Christina and I’ve been right here, so we take the chance to have a fast look spherical.

The Medieval ruins of the previous abbey are as fascinating as the present sixteenth Century cathedral, and additional within the city, we uncover Britain’s smallest pub, the Nutshell. It’s appreciably unusual inside and its locals are even stranger. It’s glorious.

It’s simply 4.5m x 2m, has sufficient house for about eight patrons at a time and has been right here since 1873. Plus there’s the corpse of a 400-year-old desiccated cat hanging above the bar; can you see it?

Early Christmas Dinner with Clare and Dave Early Christmas Dinner with Clare and Dave

As a result of Christina’s heading again to Australia earlier than Christmas, Clare and Dave have determined to throw Christmas dinner early. 

Dave is a stupendously good cook dinner and knocks up a full lamb roast with each trimming recognized to man.

Sure, you might be right. That’s five-hour roast lamb shoulder, roast carrots and potatoes, mashed swede, brussels sprouts, Yorkshire puddings (Dave’s from Yorkshire, so these are the actual deal), and an entire cauliflower cheese! What a legend. 

Early Christmas Dinner with Clare and Dave Early Christmas Dinner with Clare and Dave

Absolute nutters. Love ’em.

The world's most expensive pie - £45 from the Cock Horse Pub in Lavenham, Suffolk

The world’s most costly pie – £45 from the Cock Horse Pub in Lavenham, Suffolk

Christina and I’ve determined to drive to the little Suffolk city of Lavenham right this moment. It’s a fairly place stuffed with wobbly Tudor homes and is even the location of a Harry Potter film shoot – Godrick’s Hole was filmed right here.

It additionally has a superb butcher store and I’ve been ready to strive certainly one of their pies for ages. The one within the picture is just not this. As we speak the butcher’s is closed.

Nevertheless, the Cock Horse pub down the street is serving lunch and we rating a desk. We additionally must see what a AU$90 pie seems to be like. Because it seems, it’s bloody good. And $45 per individual for Christmas lunch isn’t so dangerous if you consider it like that.

Lunch in London, UK. Ceru Mediterranean restaurant in South Kensington

It wouldn’t be a visit to England – or a stick with Clare and Dave – if we didn’t enterprise into London at the least as soon as. 

Whereas we’re mooching round South Kensington, Clare spots this place for lunch: Ceru, turning out a superb vary of pan-southern Med meals.

London, UK. Natural History Museum London, UK. Before and after dark inside the Natural History Museum

We determine to pop our heads around the door of the Pure Historical past Museum. It’s been years (as in since we had been all at major college) since Clare, Dave and I’ve been right here, and Christina’s by no means been inside.

We begin that sluggish museum-paced stroll by way of the reveals and take a look at a really good images exhibit. By the point we exit the museum, we realise we’ve been in there for hours and it’s now darkish!

London, UK. Christmas lights in Knightsbridge London, UK. Christina and the London look

It’s truly fairly good timing although and we benefit from the Christmas lights in all their glory shining out from the gorgeous shops alongside Knightsbridge.

It reveals how lengthy Christina and I’ve been away; we’ve forgotten simply how magical London might be at Christmas.

London, UK. Chinatown

Quickly we’re feeling hungry once more, so we excessive tail it to Chinatown. We choose a spot at random and discover ourselves on the second flooring of the Golden Phoenix. This place has been right here over 30 years and the kitchen actually is aware of what it’s doing. 

The meals and repair are each excellent and I even spot a celeb: the comic Lee Evans has are available after us and is sitting a few tables away from us. I ponder if he’ll recognise me…

London, UK. Jim and his mum and dad having Christmas dinner together

With Christina again in Australia, there’s not a lot left for me to do however hang around with my of us. My dad’s had some well being issues just lately, however has simply had his oncologist give him the all-clear from non-Hodgkins Lymphoma, but it surely’s been a troublesome yr.

It’s pretty to spend a lot time with these loonies, and Christmas dinner is rather like previous instances, although it’s salmon en croute somewhat than turkey and the bubbles are all sans booze, however the individuals are simply the identical.

Jim and his mum and dad in the Gardener's Arms, Tostock

We hope you’ve loved this month’s tasty morsel. The story of my UK journey continues subsequent month, nevertheless, once I take a look at a Cambridge steakhouse and a Suffolk nation manor, in addition to a number of enjoyable on my return to Sydney.

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