Simply previous 11 p.m., flickering stage lights lit up a rainbow of colours within the crowd at Zurich’s lakeside Landiwiese park. Guys in tank tops and loads of colourful wigs swirl about, with quite a lot of rainbow flags waving within the distance. Switzerland’s not too long ago topped Eurovision winner, the 24-year-old Nemo, who not too long ago got here out as nonbinary, walked out on stage to a thousand shrieks and cheers. In an extended, pleated skirt and a pink, fluffy hat, Nemo’s funky vogue matched the enjoyable ambiance at Zurich’s satisfaction pageant.
Performing an eight-minute prolonged model of their profitable tune “The Code,” I sang alongside to the joyful lyrics alongside drag queens and different followers holding stuffed “Discovering Nemo” fish. Their lyrics, “This story is my fact… to search out myself on observe, I broke the code…” rang via the viewers. Their theatrical tune particulars their expertise of “coming to a spot the place I really feel comfy with myself,” they advised me in a short interview earlier than occurring stage. “It’s a really dramatic piece.”
In actual fact, Switzerland is a really dramatic place. Its mountains, the snow-capped Swiss Alps with hundreds of glaciers, stretch upwards of 15,000 toes to the sky, whereas within the south, the nation’s deepest lake creates a subtropical (and really humid) local weather. With 4 official languages and in a spot the place you possibly can expertise all 4 seasons in a single day, Switzerland’s uncommon construction of 26 regional governments (every with its personal distinctive customs, cultures, and traditions) makes it an exhilarating place to discover. The nation’s fame for excessive particular person privateness, secret financial institution vaults, and worldwide neutrality fosters a type of inner strife and drama, permitting for inclusivity and private expression.
Zurich, and Switzerland normally, isn’t in your typical homosexual journey itinerary. Nonetheless, with Nemo’s massive win at Eurovision in Might (solely the third time Switzerland gained; the final time was Celine Dion in 1988), Switzerland is instantly on the homosexual map. Subsequent yr, the nation will host the 2025 Eurovision Tune Contest, which is certainly one among Europe’s greatest LGBTQ occasions of the yr.
I’ve been visiting Switzerland for the final decade. First, like many vacationers, as a result of I used to be captivated by its unimaginable nature, after which once more after I found an underground queer scene within the picturesque Lausanne. When my sister moved to Switzerland a number of years in the past, that sealed the deal. It’s a spot I like returning to as a result of the character right here is ever-changing, and the LGBTQ nightlife and tradition — now expanded with Nemo’s propulsion to the world stage — is frequently rising.
Listed below are my picks for LGBTQ-friendly issues to do and see in Switzerland.
Zurich
Switzerland’s most populous metropolis, Zurich, has the nation’s largest focus of LGBTQ folks. This yr’s Delight pageant had practically 60,000 attendees; it’s Switzerland’s largest LGBTQ occasion of the yr and attracts guests from throughout the nation and even quite a lot of LGBTQ vacationers from world wide. I met a handful of different Individuals who had been on Eurotrips on the similar time.
Zurich’s Altstadt neighborhood, divided by the picturesque Limmat River, which feeds into the expansive Lake Zurich, is the place you’ll discover the very best issues to see and do. The neighborhood is house to Barfüsser, which was one among Europe’s first assembly spots for LGBTQ folks since homosexuality was first decriminalized in Switzerland within the Forties. Members of Der Kreis (The Circle), a global group for lesbians and homosexual males, produced magazines and held annual galas within the house up till the Nineteen Sixties. That authentic location is now a homosexual bar, KWEER, serving cocktails, whereas Barfüsser’s namesake is a gay-friendly sushi restaurant just some doorways down. The cobblestoned Spitalgasse road can be house to an LGBTQ basement nightclub, Heaven, which hosts drag reveals, sweaty events, and worldwide DJs. And the Rote Fabrik warehouse is one other spot for queer tradition — lined in graffiti and host to techno events and the Zurich satisfaction afterparty.
Elsewhere within the Altstadt, I like simply wandering the streets for buying and bar-hopping. Haus Hiltl gives a buffet lunch and holds the Guinness World Data title because the world’s oldest vegetarian restaurant. Only a brief stroll from there, you possibly can attain the Langstrasse, one other neighborhood with a focus of LGBTQ areas and nightlife.
In addition to bars and eating places, the Museum of Design (Museum für Gestaltung) has two outposts within the metropolis—one among which gives excursions via two basement flooring of its archive of Swiss design posters, furnishings, and typographic artifacts. You too can take a ship tour out on the lake, and if the wind hits excellent, you’ll get the candy smells from the Lindt chocolate manufacturing unit on the western fringe of the lake (the place you may as well take excursions).
Lausanne & the Swiss Riviera
Whenever you cross between the German and French-speaking halves of Switzerland, you’re crossing what the Swiss seek advice from because the Röstigraben, an imaginary border dividing the 2 linguistic areas. From Zurich, it’s solely about 2-3 hours by prepare to Lausanne after which one other half-hour to Geneva. Many of the nation is straightforward to journey through prepare, and between cities, you’ll hardly ever spend quite a lot of hours on the prepare earlier than attending to the following vacation spot. I like to interrupt it up, and even on the prepare from Zurich to Lausanne, I’ll normally cease over for a espresso and cake in Bern, then proceed on my approach.
One among my first-ever visits to Switzerland was to Lausanne and the Swiss Riviera alongside Lake Geneva (Lac Léman in French). The river Flon runs below the town, creating a number of valleys, or gorges, that make for unimaginable pictures. Strolling via the picturesque metropolis middle, you always transfer up and down amongst totally different hills and valleys. This elevation from the lake down under offers expansive panoramic views of Switzerland and France throughout the lake.
House to the Worldwide Olympic Committee, Lausanne’s Olympic Museum alongside the lake has a pleasant backyard and interesting exhibitions associated to the historical past and way forward for the Olympics. For extra nature, there’s the Lavaux Specific Practice, which takes you on a 90-minute journey via the UNESCO World Heritage vineyards simply exterior the town (nice for a romantic day journey!).
Inside the metropolis, the hipster neighborhood of Quartier du Flon has loads of artsy outlets and museums. That’s additionally the place you’ll discover a number of the higher nightlife, together with the homosexual dive bar Le Saxo after which the mega-club MAD, which hosts a homosexual social gathering each Sunday referred to as Gameboy. The Lausanne Cathedral gives that postcard-perfect view you’d anticipate in Switzerland. For fascinating modern artwork exhibitions, the MUDAC (Museum of Modern Artwork) places on a superb present — I beloved one specific exhibition on Swiss watches.
Geneva
House to the United Nations, Geneva isn’t precisely recognized for being an thrilling metropolis. Worldwide politics and diplomacy maintain the ambiance right here calm and relaxed. Like elsewhere in Switzerland, metropolis life revolves across the lake, with the Geneva Fountain being one of many extra iconic sights.
The Buvette des Bains restaurant is positioned on a pier that juts proper into the lake and serves top-of-the-line fondues in Geneva. To maintain with a relaxed metropolis journey, the outlying neighborhood of Carouge is a nice place to remain, a barely eccentric and colourful space with loads of gelaterias, fashionable bars, and outside cafes. I notably love the membership Le Chat Noir, which mixes meals, cocktails, and stay music in a enjoyable and gay-friendly surroundings.
Lauterbrunnen
Lauterbrunnen, a valley city between Interlaken and the Jungfrau mountain, is surrounded by steep mountains and 72 gushing waterfalls you possibly can spot even from the prepare. Writers like J.R.R. Tolkien and Goethe famously discovered inspiration there. Throughout my most up-to-date go to, I stayed in Mürren, a city additional up the Schilthorn mountain, itself surrounded by 200 different mountain peaks.
Mürren is known for its summer time journey actions, together with paragliding; you’ll even discover excursions at cafes equivalent to Café LIV (which sells killer scorching chocolate). For the much less adventurous, you possibly can simply take a gondola as much as the Piz Gloria restaurant and viewing platform on the summit, which has an accessible cliff stroll with guardrails for some unimaginable views. Piz Gloria was Switzerland’s first 360-degree rotating restaurant, constructed by the producers of the James Bond film for the 1969 movie “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service.”
With Mürren’s tiny inhabitants of simply 400 residents, it’s a quiet place to remain in a single day. The Drei Berge Resort’s eclectic design of Alpine and mountaineering artifacts makes for a central place to remain in model, with stunning nighttime views. There’s additionally a brief 30-minute path you possibly can take from the bottom of the resort right down to Gimmelwald, the place there’s a small brewery, Schwarz Mönch, promoting a Swiss darkish lager beer on an out of doors terrace wanting over the Lauterbrunnen valley.
Ticino
Additional southeast from the Lauterbrunnen valley and just some hours from Milan, the lake resort cities in Ticino (the Italian-speaking canton) are a welcome escape from the wintery mountains. The lakeside city of Ascona on Lake Maggiore (Switzerland’s deepest lake) is a superb place to remain for a style of the Sonnenstube der Schweiz — the “sunny facet of Switzerland,” the place the local weather is extra Mediterranean than Alpine. Ascona is a sister metropolis to New Orleans and hosts the annual (and free!) Jazz Ascona pageant till 3 a.m. every night time alongside the water for over every week every June. The sounds of stay jazz, the colourful homes, and the contemporary fish and risotto eaten outdoor make the quaint city the proper place to discover the area.
From Ascona, you possibly can take a ferry or non-public boat to the Brissago islands in the course of Lake Maggiore. There, a historic botanical backyard (and resort) gives a fairly spot for a picnic lunch amongst 2,000 totally different species of crops and flowers from each continent. The islands have been handed down via numerous aristocrats over the past century however have at all times been a joyful place the place “residing is an artwork,” as Max Emden, one of many earlier homeowners, designated the place.
Away from the blue lake and up within the lush inexperienced mountains in Ticino, the tiny mountainside city of Corippo has a inhabitants of simply six folks. Since final yr, it’s been an Albergo Diffuso, unfold out throughout a number of restored buildings all through the village, providing an expensive resting place for hikers and thrill-seekers into cave leaping, river diving, and bungee leaping.
What You Have to Know
Switzerland is a welcoming nation, and visiting it as an LGBTQ traveler is secure, enjoyable, and simple. Getting across the nation, you’ll need a Swiss Journey Go prepare ticket, which provides you entry to native metropolis subways, commuter trains, inter-city trains, and even choose gondolas and mountain railways. That makes it simple to take a look at a number of cities and discover extra in shorter intervals.
For upcoming LGBTQ occasions, the MySwitzerland web site outlines festivals and prides, together with Zurich CSD, a queer music and artwork pageant for LGBTQ youth and even a homosexual ski week in Arosa.