I Visited One among Northern Greece’s Up-and-coming Spots for Out of doors Fanatics — Right here’s Why You Ought to, Too

“You’re canyoning!” my husband, Emilio, yelled down from the monolith above me. I hadn’t realized there was a verb for what I used to be doing — half mountaineering, half sliding all the way down to a ravine stuffed with frigid water on a scorching summer time afternoon. This was our third day within the Zagorohoria, a bunch of 46 villages that cling to the sting of the Vikos Gorge, within the Epirus area of northern Greece. And we had already used up a lot of the sporty verbs I knew, as we rock-climbed, hiked, and rafted our manner by way of half a dozen completely different fairy-tale settings. 

The canyon we had been exploring has a sequence of rock swimming pools, or swimming holes, carved out of the limestone by mountain springs. It wasn’t the one spot the place we took a dip. The earlier morning, within the village of Iliochóri, we hiked 3,000 toes down — sure, down — to waterfalls that resulted in three ranges of strikingly inexperienced pure swimming pools. This hidden paradise was nicely value what we thought-about a strenuous trek. However as we noticed an older girl descending a wood ladder to the swimming space in pumps and palazzo pants, leather-based purse in hand, we realized “strenuous” may not be a sentiment shared by everybody. 

On one other tour, Emilio and I rented an inflatable raft and glided down the Voidomatis, stated to be one of many cleanest rivers in Europe. The water was so clear we may have counted each pebble on the backside if we had the time — which, in these timeless environment, nearly appeared like a risk.

The area’s pine-covered mountains, glowing rivers, stone cottages, and curved bridges — known as xerolithia, or “dry stones,” as a result of they’re made with none cement — bear little resemblance to the blue seas and whitewashed homes of most Greek postcards. However the panorama is each bit as gorgeous. Remoted by the mountains, native wildlife have flourished over the centuries, with greater than 2,000 indigenous plant species current right now. (Some villagers even proceed the custom of utilizing them to make botanical medicines.) The wildlife nonetheless contains brown bears, the goat-like chamois, golden eagles, and Macedonian newts — amphibians that resemble tiny dragons and reside within the Drakolimni (“dragon lake”) on the prime of Mount Tymfi. 

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Over the course of the twentieth century, many residents of the Zagorohoria moved away from the villages to bigger cities or different international locations to make a dwelling. Now the spectacular setting is drawing individuals again, in addition to engaging new guests to discover the area. Vasileios Remos, our rafting information and the proprietor of Zagori Out of doors Actions, is a kind of returning locals. After leaving to pursue an economics diploma on the College of Ioannina, about 40 miles away, he started going again in 2007 to work as a rafting information on weekends. On the time, resident old-timers thought he was nuts. “It was tough to influence individuals right here in regards to the methods of the outside,” he recalled, noting that at first demand was restricted, and there have been solely so many days a yr he may get work as a information. 

Round 2010, issues modified. Previously separated into three completely different municipalities, the Zagorohoria grew to become a single massive one. And 2011 introduced the first-ever Zagori Mountain Working races: six occasions, from a youngsters’ race to a 37-mile run, held during the last weekend of July. That yr, simply 300 athletes participated; final summer time, there have been greater than 2,500 runners from 35 international locations, and greater than 10,000 guests stuffed the villages — the place the variety of full-time residents hovers round 4,000. 

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As runners, hikers, and rafters returned dwelling with tales of jogging over arched bridges, rafting crystal rivers, and lingering at tavernas underneath historical airplane bushes, tourism started to develop. It was sufficient to assist a handful of B&Bs, in addition to bigger properties like Aristi Mountain Resort & Villas, the place we stayed within the western Zagori. The lodge has indoor and outside swimming pools, a restaurant, and a spa, all simply up a cobblestoned path from the village sq.. In the present day, Remos guides teams on mountaineering, rafting, canoeing, kayaking, and mountain-biking expeditions near 200 days a yr, and has even led rafting journeys previous snowcapped mountains on Christmas. In contrast to different areas of Greece, the Zagorohoria now attracts guests year-round. 

As appreciation for the Zagorohoria’s pure setting grew, so did the infrastructure wanted to guard it. The world was named a unesco International Geopark in 2015. In 2023, it was added to the World Heritage listing. And in 2021, it grew to become a part of the Epirus Path: a 230-mile-long, well-marked footpath, with shelter accessible roughly each 12 miles. “The objective is to construct structural assist, however depart the pure setting untouched,” says Epirus’s governor, Alexandros Kachrimanis. With paved, albeit winding roads, and an airport simply 45 minutes away, the villages at the moment are nicely linked to the remainder of Greece. As Kachrimanis factors out, “When you possibly can drive a half-hour from Ioannina to the seashore to swim or to mountains to hike, you notice that this space gives uncommon advantages.”

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Uncommon they undoubtedly are. At each nook, we discovered a heart-stopping view, a just-scary-enough journey, or a particular meal. At Sta Riza, in Vitsa, Emilio cherished the grilled rooster and inexperienced beans a lot that he started plotting how he may relocate us and eat there day-after-day. Additionally in Vitsa, we shared grilled mushrooms at Kanela & Garyfallo, the place the proprietor not solely grows his personal shiitakes but in addition employs a group of foragers to scour the gorge for wild varieties (greater than 2,500 develop in Greece). In a single four-hour hike from Kipi Suites, the charming assortment of restored stone houses the place we stayed within the central Zagori, we traveled over, underneath, and round 5 sturdy and picturesque xerolithia. 

That evening, we had dinner at Vikogiatros Café, a neighborhood hangout within the village of Koukouli. The taverna’s title means Vikos Physician, and within the glow of lightbulbs strung between tree branches, its proprietor, Nikos Kontodimos, defined that he carries on the traditions of the herbologists of yore, making liqueurs from 118 completely different native herbs. After I requested to see a listing, he tapped his temple and stated, “It’s all in my mind. However the crowning jewel is pine, which is energizing.” 

On the sound of it, I opted for wild rose. However Kontodimos introduced me a shot of pine anyway. Nearly minty, it was immediately invigorating — one thing I want in my on a regular basis life. I requested him if he bottled his liqueurs to promote. He shook his head. “Provided that I’ve a big provide. I’ve to maintain sufficient to serve my clients or I gained’t have pine once more till subsequent summer time.”

Whereas mildly disappointing, the reply was not completely stunning. Like many residents of the Zagorohoria, Kontodimos realizes that what he has right here is treasured. Fortunately for me, he’s each good sufficient to safeguard it and sort sufficient to share it.  

A model of this story first appeared within the June 2024 subject of Journey + Leisure underneath the headline “It Takes a Village.”