After greater than a decade dwelling and touring all through the south of France, I’m nonetheless consistently discovering new seashores, tiny cities hiding within the shadow of ritzy resorts, and climbing trails linking the string of medieval villages dotting the Vallée des Merveilles (Valley of Wonders). Each summer time, the French Riviera swells with vacationers who fill the seashores in Good, Cannes, and Saint-Tropez, however there’s a lot extra to see after you’ve strolled Boulevard de la Croisette and trekked to the hilltop village of Èze. From car-free islands to cities constructed 2,000 years in the past by the Romans, right here’s the place to go if you wish to get off the crushed path and uncover a neighborhood aspect of the French Riviera.
Lérins Islands, Cannes
A 15-minute boat trip from the port in Cannes, sibling islands Sainte-Marguerite and Saint-Honorat dominate the bay. The seashores are totally completely different from what you’ll discover alongside La Croisette (suppose shaded, secluded coves). Boats usually publish up within the channel between the 2 islands, the place sculptor Jason deCaires Taylor designed the primary underwater eco-museum in France and the Mediterranean, with six submerged statues shallow sufficient to snorkel round. On the bigger island of Sainte-Marguerite, make the sunshine hike to Fort Royal, identified for its well-known former prisoner, the Man within the Iron Masks, or attempt to snag one of many hardest reservations on the French Riviera — seaside restaurant and membership La Guérite — and dance into the late afternoon.
Plage Paloma, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat earned its nickname — the “Peninsula of Billionaires” — due to the extravagant mansions and villas crowning what claims to be the most costly village on the earth. Whereas estates like Villa & Jardins Ephrussi de Rothschild are one thing to ogle at, the character right here is the true attraction. Practically six miles of footpaths skirt the peninsula’s rugged shoreline, resulting in hidden coves superb for cliff leaping and tucked-away seashores like Plage Paloma, which, regardless of counting celeb visits by the likes of Sean Connery and Elton John, is likely one of the most laid-back seaside golf equipment on the Riviera.
Théoule-sur-Mer
On the sting of the Bay of Cannes, the tiny seaside city of Théoule-sur-Mer was usually disregarded in favor of its well-known neighbor (Cannes is only a 30-minute drive away), till Château de Théoule opened this yr in a former cleaning soap manufacturing facility not removed from the late designer Pierre Cardin’s Palais Bulles. In contrast to nearly all of the French Riviera’s pebble-strewn coast, the small stretch of shoreline right here is sandy and framed by the rust-red Massif de l’Estérel mountain vary, making it the right base for seaside hikes and snorkeling journeys within the close by crystal-clear coves.
Porquerolles, Hyères
The trio of Porquerolles, Port-Cros, and Le Levant are dubbed Îles d’Or, or Golden Islands. They’re about two hours from Saint-Tropez and scattered off the coast of Hyères, however they’ve extra in frequent with the Caribbean than their celeb-frequented neighbors. Croissant-shaped Porquerolles is the biggest of the three and probably the most accessible, because it has a number of studios and small resorts. A sailboat is one of the best ways to get right here — and the very best place to sleep, too. Coastal loop trails lower by means of Aleppo pines on the car-free island, the place you possibly can hike or bike to seashores like Plage Notre Dame, which has a repute of being one of many most lovely in Europe.
Plage Mala, Cap-d’Ail
Vacationers flock in droves to the see-and-be-seen seaside golf equipment in Saint-Tropez and Cannes, however Plage Mala’s cobalt- and emerald-colored water simply rivals the Maldives — and lacks the crowds. The doorway to Cap-d’Ail’s cove is as dramatic as the encircling cliffs encasing the pebble seaside. You may want to arrange for a lightweight trek down winding steps, however when you attain the shore, you’ll see why the hassle was price it. Ebook one of many ink-black seaside beds at native favourite Eden Plage Mala (one in every of two non-public seashores right here) and spend the afternoon sipping native rosé or cruising to the close by sea caves by pedal boat.
Vence
Most guests make it as much as the walled medieval city of Saint-Paul-de-Vence with out realizing the superbly preserved fortified village of Vence is simply quarter-hour away by automotive — and rather a lot much less overrun by vacationers. Plus, a few of the similar artists whose work will be present in Saint-Paul additionally left their contact on Vence. For instance, there’s former resident Marc Chagall’s mosaic of Moses within the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de la Nativité (the smallest cathedral in France) and Henri Matisse’s blue tile-topped Chapelle du Rosaire de Vence, which the painter thought of to be his masterpiece.
Juan-les-Pins, Cap d’Antibes
The rocky peninsula of Cap d’Antibes and the resort city of Juan-les-Pins have been immortalized by photographer Slim Aarons due to ultra-luxe Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc‘s iconic saltwater pool suspended over the Mediterranean. Right here, guests also can discover the Nineteen Twenties, artwork deco-style Hôtel Belles Rives, which is the villa the place F. Scott Fitzgerald began “Tender is the Night time.” On the weekends, you possibly can spot locals biking across the space, having fun with lunch with lighthouse views at Le Bistrot du Curé or searching for native produce on the conventional market in close by Antibes. The character in Juan-les-Pins is on the extra untamed aspect, making the peninsula’s lengthy stretch of white, sandy seashores with their crochet parasols all of the extra interesting.
La Turbie
Named after the Trophy of Augustus, a Roman monument in-built 6 B.C. to have a good time the empire’s victory over native tribes, La Turbie sits close to the Italian border above Monaco. Right this moment, you possibly can nonetheless see remnants of the ruins, however the true cause to make it as much as La Turbie is for the panoramic views of the Riviera (which span from Italy to the Massif de l’Esterel mountain vary) at Tête de Chien promontory, one of many highest viewpoints within the area. After you soak within the vistas, hike all the way down to the coast or cycle into city for espresso. Le Café de la Fontaine, within the middle of La Turbie, is well worth the detour for its hearty, market-fresh French bistro fare.